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My C-8.7 has a similiar set up to yours -- at least anchor and bow roller. Recently I bought a second hand simpson manual windlaass with rope/chain gypsy. What modifications have been made to the anchor well lid and where exactly has the windlass been positioned? Does the chain fall into the normal anchor well or does it run down
under the foreberth?
I realise that you may be unaware how much your yacht has been modified therefore is it possible to send photos of your windlass installation? Any assistance would be much appreciated.
nothjing like a good night´s rest to straighten your mind...Instead of welding
a pin to that rectangular SS plate, just weld a tube with an ID that lets the
roller holder´s pin pass through. That way, you can take the anchor off the
roller whenever you feel like it...
agree with the first 11 words; I don't understand the rest. I must have missed
the message you are answering. By the subject, I got the connection with what
you are talking about (I think!) but don't quite get the "welded tube and
roller pin through it" business. If you welded the tube (instead of using a
roller pin?) you wouldn't ever be able to get the anchor off the roller without
pulling all line from under it, would you? I have to
be missing something here, or thinking about something different than youare talking about??
Erenst was asking hiow to prevent chain from slipping back down when you haul it
up by hand. The trick is to have a pivoting jamming plate above the roller (wheere
most of them have a pin to prevent the chain or rode from jumping off). I had
thought first of a pin welded to the plate, which would make it very difficult
to remove the anchor from the roller unit; but if you weld a bit of tube
instead, then you can pass the pin through the tube and get the same resuilt
with the additional advanatage of being able to remove the plate easily
for the second try. It sounds necessary (to stop the chain off if you need to)
but I don't understand why slipping the pin back through it temporarily, or
something, wouldn't do that for me long enough to regroup or get the chain out
from underfoot or whatever...
Guess I must be dense (I figure you must agree!) and I will have to try tofind a picture of this kind of thing somewhere. I'm not following theproblem I guess.
The Simpson windless on our 8.7 is positioned just behind the anchor locker on the center line of the boat. There is a haus pipe that feeds the chain/line down into the locker. From the V-birth you can see 3 or 4 inches of the pipe were it comes down thru the deck and goes into the locker. There are no modifications to the locker door itself. I have found that you have to open the locker and help coil the line and keep an eye on the chain or it can ball up in the pipe while hoisting, maybe because the locker isn't quite deep enough for the rode to fall.
Our Simpson, I think it is a "tiger" model, has a removable 30" handle. Take the bottom off and fill it with grease and change the gasket before you mount the unit to save doing it later. Ours started to leak grease on to the deck one hot summer day. Note also that you must cleat the line off after the anchor is down or it will slip thru the gypsy.
If you need more info repost or E-Mail me directly,
Here are the pics for ya. I have a fortress FX-11 and a Hydro-Bubble....(12lb maybe? cant remember the size at the moment). You may want to take the template, and pick up an appropriate sized windline roller, then lay the (is it Bulwagga?)anchor on the template to see if you may need to extend one side or the other to get enough plate under the roller for a good stich-weld, and enough clearance for the scoop end of the anchor from the tip of the bow, and enough clearance so it can ride in the roller with an anchor rode coming out of the other roller and not catching it. I also drilled/cut a 2.5" hole in the bow section just about 1.5" aft the forestay base, down into the anchor locker, since I have a Dorade vent in the "Factory" hawse hole. The aft end of the plate has a section of replaceable
1" PVC pipe horizontally ( to lift the rode slightly), and is secured with two, four inch long 1/2" eyebolts, each covered by 1/2" ID (by about1.5" long) pvc pipe pieces, topped with 2" fender washers (all free rolling) to redirect the rodes around the dorade vent and down to the deck cleat. While
I am sure the PVC will wear with time (stainless might be better, and could be installed easily), it will save my anchor line and is cheaply and easily replaced (remove two bolts). I also installed a 3/8" eyebolt adjacent to the inside end of the longer roller (port side) for an anchor snubber, or whatever, and installed a 3/8" eye-nut on the protruding end of the roller-guide bolt on the shorter one, (starboard) for the same reason. The
eye bolts that extend through the 1" PVC @ the aft end of the plate provide a great catchall point for caribiners, bungees, or whatever you want to use to secure your anchor with. They are open eyes, so they won't take the load of a forestay, but they are only bolted into 3/16" thick stainless, which might not take that kind of loading anyway. I used 2, 1/2" dia. x 3" hex bolts at the front end of the plate (centered between the two forestay bolts, and sharing the existing, large forestay backplate I had put in a while back)) and 2, 1/2"dia. x 4" hex bolts for the aft end of the plate. I used the excess bolt length on the aft bolts to spin on two 1/2" dia eye nuts on the ends down in the anchor locker, to secure the bitter ends of each of the anchor lines. Worked out kinda nice. ;-))
Please excuse the pic. quality since I just shot them with my camera phone. I will try to get some better ones for you.
Mark V. Patullo
I forgot to mention, I did manage to get Mark's pictures up. They are in the Photos area of the
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/columbiasailingyachts/ site. Col26MkII
Great Blue or similar name.